Reflections from Iraq

With less than forty hours to go until my departure from Iraq, now is as good a time as any to reflect on my time here. I am currently in Baghdad for the second time after returning from my ventures around other parts of the country. I could’ve left as soon as this evening, but decided to postpone until the early hours of the 14th, as that would give me a flight to Israel (surprise, the secret country of the trip is revealed) that had me land at around 2:00pm local time, instead of a depleting redeye. I can’t afford to get sick again or be debilitated in a way that ruins my one week in the Holy Land.

Two factors influenced my personal experience of Iraq quite dramatically. The first one is the intense amount of stress I was coping with during the first half of my trip (spoken about in the previous newsletter). The second was I stayed here way too long - so much so that I will forever remember Iraq as the country that taught me a much needed lesson once and for all. I have a propensity to overstay in a place for the fear that I will not be able to extend if I wish. That has almost never proven to be a good course of action, and Iraq has now informed all my travels to come. Ten days is the maximum I would recommend to anyone visiting Iraq, probably even less… I’ll have been here nineteen.

Iraq is right in the middle of the Middle East. It is a country that has been the home of many ancient civilizations - Sumerians, Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians, to name a few. There are significant historical and cultural sites spread all around. They are not as easily accessible as would be the case in a country like Egypt, so it’ll take a little more patience and effort to get to them.

Baghdad is where nearly any trip to Iraq will begin. It is the second biggest city in the Arab world behind Cairo (though Baghdad is about 7.5 million people, and Cairo is over 22 million). Baghdad is worth one action packed day of your time to see things like Mutanabi and Al Rashid Street, various monuments, the national museum, and several restaurants / cafes. It is best done with a guide for efficiency. Forty-five minutes away is the site of ancient Babylon. There are three things to know about Babylon - the images you’ll find online are of a reconstruction done in the 1980s, the actual crumbling ruins are there as well, and the more interesting thing is one of Saddam Hussein’s former palaces sitting atop an adjacent hill (you’ll need a guide or connection to bribe the police to get in).

There are several interesting places in the south that I decided not to visit, mainly because I overextended my stay in the north, and began to grow tired of the oppressive heat. As I write this from the comfort of a posh cafe in the Baghdad Mall, the temperature outside is 114 degrees. Never have I had greater appreciation for the heat we experience in Miami - humidity and I will have a forever changed relationship. I miss her.

Other places I visited in Iraq:

Mosul

The second largest city in Iraq is today notorious as the site where the Islamic State of Syria and Iraq (ISIS) was both founded and formally defeated (they still exist, but not in the same capacity). If you don’t already know, ISIS was, and remains, a vicious terrorist organization that committed unspeakable atrocities to further their psychotic world view.

The main reason I wanted to visit Mosul was to see the still remaining destruction from their war - quite a rare thing to see, particularly as a privileged Westerner. I extended my tour around the area to include Hatra, an ancient city constructed in Greco-Roman style that served as a trading location for the Roman, Arab, and Persian worlds, pre-Islam. One cannot escape noticing the bullet holes on the ruins of Hatra from ISIS’s time there. I so badly wanted to take one of the bullet shells, but decided not to in the event it was flagged on my entry into Israel or the United States.

Hatra was cool and worth doing if you’re in Mosul. After Hatra we explored the old city of Mosul. The mosques and churches that were destroyed by ISIS have since been rebuilt in beautiful fashion. Much of what was once rubble is being intensely rebuilt with the help of UNESCO. The destroyed sections that remain are ominous - I didn’t expect to be as affected by them as I was. This was my first time walking through a recent war zone. My travels constantly fill me with tremendous gratitude for the cards life dealt me, but walking through Mosul was probably one of the most profound moments of appreciation I’ve ever had.

Mosul is worth a visit. By the time you get there the ruins may be gone. For the sake of the people there, I hope so.

Erbil & Sulemaniyah (Kurdistan)

Kurdistan is a region that spans across parts of Turkey, Syria, Iraq, and Iran. It is the heartland of the Kurdish people - a distinct ethnic group. The Iraqi part of Kurdistan is an autonomous region. They have their own military called the Peshmerga, their own visas (Iraqi visas work to visit), culture, language, etc.

Much of Kurdistan’s value is best accessed by renting a car. Kurdistan is widely considered one of, if not the, safest places in the Middle East. The atrocities the Kurdish people have endured have bred a toughness in them that makes for a haven in an otherwise sometimes volatile region. I only scratched the surface of learning about their struggles, but the most explicit event was when Saddam Hussein waged an explicit genocide against them between 1986 and 1991. Conflict has remained an ever present danger, and believe me when I tell you - the Kurds are ready for whatever comes their way.

Erbil is the capital of Kurdistan. A city of about 1.5 million people, it’s worth one full day of exploration. Bazaars, monuments, restaurants, etc. Sulemaniyah is favored by many throughout Iraq as one of the best places in the country. I enjoyed my time there, but didn’t exactly see why it was so different. Again, probably worth one full day. There are various historical sites, small towns, and some natural features in the region to see as well - renting a car or hiring a guide is the only way to do it effectively.

What about safety in Iraq? As I mentioned, Kurdistan is considered one of the safest places in the Middle East. The rest of Iraq is referred to as “Federal Iraq.”

Safety is relative - what’s safe for some is not safe for others. The US State Department classifies Iraq as Level 4 - Do Not Travel. I traveled across Iraq independently using public transportation. At each military highway checkpoint I was taken aside to the checkpoint leader and chatted up - how long was I here, where was I going, how has everything been. Tourism is not big here, so finding an American (that looks Iraqi) in a car full of Iraqis makes them take extra care.

After speaking with some locals and observing my surroundings, here’s my take on the security / political situation in the country:

Iraq is a majority Shia Muslim country, with significant parts being Sunni. During the war with ISIS, Shia militias allied with the Iraqi government to defeat ISIS. There are significant factions of the Shia militias, namely those under the banner of the Islamic Resistance, that are an extremist group. A significant part of the country supports Shia politics, particularly the association with Iran (their neighbor and Shia friend). People aside, affiliations with the Iranian regime are not good if you’re a Westerner.

There are factions that favor a stronger association with countries such as the UAE and Saudi Arabia, the other side of the Islamic world coin. I believe that if the United States did not have 2,500 troops in Iraq, there is a good chance a civil conflict of some sort would erupt.

So long as the current geopolitical situation remains the same, and the United States maintains their troops here, I think Iraq is fine to visit. Funny enough, this morning I read reports that the US has initiated the evacuation of nonessential personnel from Middle Eastern embassies including Baghdad. The reason for this is that the Iranian government has failed to come to terms with the US about their nuclear program, and there is a threat military action will be taken. I leave in about thirty-six hours, and am monitoring the situation. Right now, evacuations are being done slowly via commercial airlines, meaning the severity of the risk is consistent with my departure schedule.

Iraq, and to a lesser extent Afghanistan, have informed my personal travel preferences moving forward. I will not be returning to the Middle East for quite some time, for two main reasons.

The first, is that the nature here is not on par with what I look for in a place. There are no forests, jungles, significant bodies of water, or wildlife. I have learned since being here how important those elements are to me (it’s made me miss Africa a lot).

The second, is that I find the consistency of Islamic culture across different countries as boring. I’ve spent time on previous trips in Turkey, Egypt, and Morocco - widely different cultures in many ways, but also largely consistent along the lines of Islam. I think it is an interesting culture, but one that I have had my fill of for the time being.

I am glad I came to Iraq; it is a country I was tremendously curious about, and one that I am grateful for my time in. This part of the world isn’t my vibe, but it takes coming here and exploring to learn that.

Next up is Israel - a country I will be making my third visit to. I am sure some of you will have many questions and thoughts about that trip, of which I will be happy to engage with over the next several weeks.

Sincerely,

Jacob

P.S. I can’t wait to get out of here (stupid heat and I’ve been here too long). The beach in Tel Aviv is calling my name.